And we thought we were ready for this!

It was absolute bliss to drive from Allahabad to Varanasi on a nice flat piece of road compared to the bumpy old tracks we’ve been on for the last couple of days. It still took a long time (like over 4 hours) to do the 130 kilometres though, as they are widening the road so there were plenty of diversions along the way but at least they were flat and smooth. Once again, there was plenty to see out the window.

 I was glad to see these kids make it safely across the road.

Could this become part of the KFC franchise in India?

We had some free time on arrival to have a feed and a bit of a rest as we weren’t heading out on the river until about 5:30 to catch the sunset.

As soon as we got to the bank of the Ganges, it was fairly evident why this place is referred to as the Holy City and India’s holiest meccas. It is a sacred Hindu pilgrimage site and one of the oldest. We could hear chanting from the other side of the river as one of the early ceremonies kicked off.

The river bank is sand and there are sand bars visible from the shore. Along the bank where we boarded the open boat, fishermen were cleaning and selling their catches. I couldn’t believe that they could catch such good fish in this extremely polluted holy water. The river is wide too; probably about as wide as the Murray at Midura and fairly fast running.

Catch of the day.

Within a few short minutes, we were on board the 30 odd foot boat and the captain (for the want of a better name) had the crank handle out and with a few quick turns had the smoky diesel engine firing away with a low pithed but loud chug. As he steered from the stern and operated a crude throttle with his foot via a long piece of rope, we joined in what seemed to be a procession of similar boats making their way downstream to Daswamedha Ghat.

As we sailed, our attention focused on the far bank where three large fires were burning. These were the funeral pyres of three individuals who were soon to make a grand entrance into a new world somewhere downstream in the Ganges.

On the way, small paper mache bio-degradable bowls were being prepared by being lined with flower petals and a small candle lit in each. These were distributed amongst us and the boat stopped briefly so we could all lower them overboard to watch them drift off into the now darkened distance.

Little floating candles to be set free in the Ganges.

On arrival at the Ghat, we were initially amused by the monkeys running around the tops of the two story buildings having a ball playing chasey. It was evident though that this was a serious event. Every night after sunset, regardless of the weather, this ceremony takes place. Dozens of these large, robust boats played humpo- bumpo to all eventually form a mat of boats and people connecting to the river bank. Loud music, clashing of cymbals, beating of drums and a fire ceremony was taking place while hundreds more of these candles were free to drift around between the boats while a much larger flame was passed from boat to boat where Hindu’s scooped smoke from the flame and blessed themselves with it.

 The Hindu Aarti ceremony

At the end of proceedings, all of the boats pushed off each other and we were on our way back to the hotel for the night. As we passed the funeral pyres, we were surprised to see there were six now burning. This is a 24 hour operation at Varanasi and they cremate up to 200 bodies every day here.  

      

Saturday 27^th October.

We thought we were ready for this but today was still a real culture shock and extremely confronting. As a bit of a warning, don’t look at the photos at the end of this blog if you don’t think you’re up for it.

We had an early morning call at 4:45am this morning to get us back to the river before dawn. When we did arrive, in the dim light we saw familiar scenes that we’d noted last night. Cattle and dogs were still sleeping in depressions on the river bank and the chickens in a cage were waking and wondering if they’d survive another day. Looking down at the chopping block with the cleaver still there from yesterday, I have my doubts. The geese that were asleep on the bank last night were happily having their first swim of the day.

Sunrise on the Ganges

As we boarded the boat, we hardly disturbed the group of men and women who were modestly bathing in front of our boat. They had incense sticks in the sand and they were praying whilst showering themselves with water from the Ganges. We crossed the river and sailed downstream observing the activities taking place at every set of Ghats (steps) as we went. Men and women alike were bathing in this holy water just like they did yesterday and every day before that. The funeral pyres had burnt out and the site had been cleared and ready for the next arrivals. We ventured way past where we stopped last night at the site of a much larger outdoor, do it yourself crematorium.

We were dumbfounded to see the amount of timber that was stacked. More was being unloaded and family members were carting it down to fuel the pyres that would see their relatives progress to another life. Out of respect, we took photos of the timber supplies but deliberately didn’t take any shots of the funeral pyres burning. We went ashore near this spot and spent ten minutes or so capturing images both with the camera, and directly to our brains that we will never forget.

Firewood for the 24 hour a day funeral pyres.

Once we all met up again, we proceeded to climb the stairs that would take us up to the market area. The stairs were lined with beggars all holding cups out in the hope that we would contribute. Some followed us and persistently begged while grabbing our arms. As we dodged the cows, dogs, beggars and cow dung that was everywhere along the road, we were confronted with some truly horrific sights. One beggar lay on his back with no legs, ringing a small bell. We simply couldn’t walk past him without giving him money.

While this was all going on, a family of monkeys were using a shade cloth roof as a trampoline and having a wow of a time. A large soup kitchen was preparing dahl in a monster of a pot while beggars were beginning to line up, desperate for their share of it.

Just another Saturday for this young bloke.

One of the final images we saw was a dog eating cow dung while her hungry pups fed from her. Again, don’t look at the shots below if you’re not up for it.

Heading back upstream was slow going against the current. We stayed close to the bank and watched the bathers as we motored past. There was a large group banging washing against rocks in the muddy water and I just hoped it wasn’t my tee shirts that I’d dropped in at the hotel reception this morning to be washed!

The only way to hop in the bath!

We had been warned that we may witness a body strapped to bamboo sticks or a dead cow floating downstream this morning. For various reasons, some people are not cremated. Pregnant women, holy men or people who had been snake bitten for example. Fortunately, we didn’t get to see a body but we did see a dead cow floating in the same water that locals were bathing in and cleaning their teeth using small sticks designed for this purpose. It was a pretty solemn trip back to the hotel I can assure you.

What you can expect to see if you look up from the Ganges River.

Mid-morning we set off from the hotel, some in mini buses and us in a taxi to visit the site where Lord Buddha preached his first sermon in religious language, thus kick starting the Buddhist religion. Ruins of the monasteries that were raised between the 3^rd century BC and the 11^th century present the most expansive ruins amongst places on the Buddhist trail.

Buddhist monastery remains 

One thing is for certain, we’ll never come back here but we’re certainly glad we’ve experienced it. It’s one of those places that really impacts and influences your worldly views.

Catch you after Lucknow.    

 Don’t look below here unless you’re up for it.

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We couldn’t walk past this guy without giving him some money.

A dog eating cow dung while feeding her pups.