Delhi to Mandawa then Gajner via Bikaner

We spent Saturday on the road traveling west to Mandawa. Of course it was busy getting out of Delhi but even the rural roads were busy. It's not just the constant stream of traffic or the deteriorating condition of the roads that slow things down, but also simply just the hazards generally encountered all day long. The horn is constantly blasting to warn slow moving trucks and  Tuk Tuk taxis that we're coming through. Nomadic herders moving stock across the 4 lanes of highway is just one example of what you constantly encounter. 

Holy Cow!

A family of 5 on a motorbike or a load of gas cylinders stacked 10 high on a trailer are just treated as comical observations and almost expected now.
The pollution leaving Delhi was particularly bad. Believe it or not, they have made fair progress in Delhi to reduce it. There are hardly any diesels and most of the public bus system uses compressed natural gas (CNG). There are 90,000 Tuk Tuk taxis that are also on CNG.

It took us four hours before lunch and three after to get to Mandawa. The road deteriorated to the point where we we were often at crawling pace in one lane only. Camel carts, donkey carts and even goat herders couldn't stop us though. At one time though, two buses heading in opposite directions were almost locked together and causing a massive bank up of tooting traffic. Our driver, Mr Singh walked forward to get involved in the argument about sorting it out. There was success and would you believe the assistant driver got the chance he had been waiting for and got to drive our bus far enough to pick up the waiting Mr Singh. The drive was certainly an experience we won't forget in a hurry. But then again, we might have three more weeks of the same.

We did finally arrive in Mandawa and it wasn't what we expected. To be honest, the town is a dive. About 30,000 live here in very poor conditions. The town is known for its Frescoes Havelis that date back two or three hundred years. As we walked the narrow streets amongst the goats, cows and donkeys, we came across several of them and visited a couple to get the feel of what it must have been like here int the centuries past. Many are quickly deteriorating due to the lack of maintenance. The mansions were built by the rich traders of the Silk Road in a time when this was part of the trading route. 

Amazing Frescoes Havelis 

Out of the rubble we arrived on foot at our accommodation for the night and boy, what a revelation that was. The Castle Mandawa, built in 1755, has been magnificently restored into a 50 plus room hotel. The rooms are so well restored that I laid on my back this morning looking up at the ceiling wondering just how they were able to do it. I can't believe that they managed to get the ornate cornice here in one piece on those roads we traveled. To have the labour force to do it is one thing but to have the workforce with the skills is another. The buildings and gardens are just in complete contrast with what lies outside the castle walls.

Castle Mandawa

Sunday

It's only about 200 kilometres from Mandawa to Bikaner (camel country) so you'd wonder how it could take over four hours to get there. The reason is the road. The first hour and a half was spent on a dirt road through the desert of Rajasthan where we came across a car and a bus bogged in the sand at different times. After a midway toilet break the road improved considerably to be  an excellent two lane highway. You still need to contend with the tractors, livestock and pedestrians but we were able to travel at a consistent pace.

There were already a couple of groups at the restaurant we were to have lunch at so we went ahead and visited Junagarth Fort built in 1588 and returned to the restaurant later to eat. It was the first of many forts we will visit but this is the only one down on the flat. All the rest we will tour are located on elevated locations. It is huge and houses a couple of palaces. Made of red sandstone, the intricate stone carvings are something to behold. From the elephant proof gates to the floors and ceilings, this is. A remarkable example of preserved history. The fort is also a museum with plenty on display. This, and the surroundings remind both of us of Cairo.

Junagarth fort

Lunch was followed by a tuk tuk ride to a market. Again, we battled our way through the dogs, cows, motorbikes and people to see and smell what was on sale. 

We've just checked into our hotel in Gajner. It's a converted Palace situated on a 6,000 acre property. At one stage there was a train service out here to bring the wealthy to hunt duck on the huge lake. I'm heading for Internet in the bar to get this posted.

We'll sleep well tonight